We all have access to the logbooks and guidebooks that allocate routes certain numbers of stars for how good the route is, but sometimes we feel differently and think a one star route is worth three stars, or the other way around. We asked a pool of local climbers that frequent Portland A LOT what their favourite routes are of each grade. These are the ones that popped up the most:
GRADE 3
GRADE 3+
Image: Blacknor Central, Portland by After the Send
GRADE 4
GRADE 4+
Image: Blacknor South, Portland
GRADE 5
GRADE 5+
Image: Battleship, Portland
GRADE 6a
GRADE 6a+
Image: The west coast of Portland
GRADE 6b
GRADE 6b+
Image: Coastguard South, Portland
GRADE 6c
GRADE 6c+
Image: Cheynes Weares, Portland by After the Send
GRADE 7a
GRADE 7a+
Image: The Cuttings, Portland.
GRADE 7b
GRADE 7b+
Image: Painting of Wallsend, Portland by Robin Rendall
GRADE 7c
GRADE 7c+
Image: The Cuttings, Portland by Paul Houghoughi
GRADE 8a
Portland is a stunning climbing area, just take care to research some of the approach paths as the landslide that occured in 2014 post-dates the 2012 Dorset Rockfax guidebook and some paths detailed in the book no longer exist (Blacknor Far South and the north of Battleship). Enjoy climbing in this beautiful place, there are literally thousands of amazing lines to access for all abilities. Happy Climbing!
Main image of Coastguard North, Portland by After the Send.
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