Portland Sport Climbing Gems
We all have access to the logbooks and guidebooks that allocate routes certain numbers of stars for how good the route is, but sometimes we feel differently and think a one star route is worth three stars, or the other way around. We asked a pool of local climbers that frequent Portland A LOT what their favourite routes are of each grade. These are the ones that popped up the most:
GRADE 3
- Tombstone – Cheyne Weares
- Voices in the Bower – The Cuttings
GRADE 3+
- Imperfect – Blacknor South
- Fallen Slab – Blacknor Beach
Image: Blacknor Central, Portland by After the Send
GRADE 4
- The Bumper Fun Book – The Cuttings
- Jutland – Blacknor South
- Godbeams – The Cuttings
GRADE 4+
- Quality Family Day – The Cuttings
- Best Destiny – Blacknor Central
- Jam – The Cuttings
- Do Ixtlan – Blacknor South
Image: Blacknor South, Portland by Katie Rendall
GRADE 5
- Sling Shot – Blacknor North
- Time out of Mind – The Cuttings
- Jacob’s Ladder – Cheynes Weares
- Amen Corner – The Cuttings
GRADE 5+
- Inception – Cheyne Weares
- Talking Smack – Blacknor North
- Limbo Dancer – The New Cuttings
- Aperitif – The Cuttings
- Birthday Girl – Blacknor Central
Image: Battleship, Portland by Katie Rendall
GRADE 6a
- Monsoon Malabar – Blacknor Central
- The Price of Silence – Battleship Back Cliff
- Pregnant Pause – Blacknor Central
- For Michele – The Cuttings
GRADE 6a+
- Reptile Smile – Blacknor North
- Consommé – The Cuttings
- Stalkers Zone – Wallsend South
- Shit Happens – Blacknor Central
- The Lizard of Oz – Blacknor South
Image: The west coast of Portland by Katie Rendall
GRADE 6b
- Very Sleepy River – Blacknor North
- Wonderlust – Cheynes Weares
- Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth – The Cuttings
- Old Buffer – The Cuttings
- The Wilsonator – Cheyne Weares
GRADE 6b+
- Walking the King – Coastguard South
- Adonis Blue – White Blue
- Burning Skies – Blacknor Central
- Lord Stublock – Blacknor Central
- Buoys will be Buoys – Battleship Back Cliff
- Return to Roissy – Blacknor Central
Image: Coastguard South, Portland by Katie Rendall
GRADE 6c
- The Long Walk – Blacknor Central
- The Unworthy – The New Cuttings
- Babelicious Redhead – Blacknor Central
- Down Town Julie Brown – Blacknor North
GRADE 6c+
- Turned to Stone – Blacknor South
- Nothing but the Groove – Coastguard North
- Julie Ocean – Cheyne Weares
- The Cutting Edge – The Cuttings
Image: Cheynes Weares, Portland by After the Send
GRADE 7a
- Jurassic Shift – Battleship Back Cliff
- Superfly Guy – Coastguard North
- Wolfgang Forever – Blacknor North
- To Wish the Impossible – Blacknor South
- Haute Cuisine – The Cuttings
- Portland Heights – Blacknor Central
GRADE 7a+
- Cybernetic Orchard – Blacknor Central
- Kendo Nagasaki – Blacknor Far South
- Bend Sinister – The New Cuttings
- Pump Hitler – Battleship Back Cliff
- Live by the Sword – The Cuttings
Image: The Cuttings, Portland by Katie Rendall
GRADE 7b
- Sweet Smell of Success – Wallsend North
- Ariane V – Wallsend South
- Want Out – The Cuttings
- Nihil – Battleship Back Cliff
GRADE 7b+
- Sign of the Vulcan – The Cuttings
- Zinc Oxide Mountain – Battleship Back Cliff
- Running It In – Coastguard North
- Road Rage – Cheyne Weares
- Wax Museum – Coastguard North
Image: Painting of Wallsend, Portland by Robin Rendall
GRADE 7c
- Hall of Mirrors – The Cuttings
- Tennesse – Coastguard South
- Illusions – Cheyne Weares
- Saskatchewan Uranium Miner – Wallsend South
GRADE 7c+
- King of the Swingers – Cave Hole
- Monoculture – Battleship Edge
- The Mind Terrorist – The Cuttings
- Hurricane on a Millpond – The Cuttings
Image: The Cuttings, Portland by Paul Houghoughi
GRADE 8a
- Breathing Method – The Cuttings
- Fighting Torque – The Cuttings
- Crucifix Kiss – Blacknor Central
- Freaky Ralph – Blacknor North
Portland is a stunning climbing area, just take care to research some of the approach paths as the landslide that occured in 2014 post-dates the 2012 Dorset Rockfax guidebook and some paths detailed in the book no longer exist (Blacknor Far South and the north of Battleship). Enjoy climbing in this beautiful place, there are literally thousands of amazing lines to access for all abilities. Happy Climbing!
Main image of Coastguard North, Portland by After the Send.
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